Ivan Vasquez left his native Oaxaca 30 years ago, long before its modern renaissance. During his childhood, Oaxaca was still undiscovered by the global gourmands who now flock to its Zócalo, capturing images of the multicolored flags strung above its pedestrian-only streets.
Vasquez moved to Los Angeles as a teenager, where his restaurant, Madre, has earned accolades and features the U.S.’s largest mezcal selection. Despite his success in the States, Vasquez maintains a strong connection to his homeland, returning to Oaxaca several times a year, especially in November for the Day of the Dead.
During this popular season, tourists often see faces painted like skeletons, elaborately costumed Mexicans parading through the streets, darkly themed art, and beautiful altars lined with marigold flowers. Vasquez suggests finding celebrations typically attended only by locals.
“People who come to Oaxaca should really spread out,” Vasquez said. “It’s not just about the main carnival. I want the world to know how amazing Oaxaca is, how much culture there is, the gastronomy, our indigenous roots. It’s just unstoppable.”
Local festivals, called comparsa, are smaller parades held in each neighborhood, celebrated for over 100 years. People spend up to six months making costumes and then hold a contest to pick the best one. In this tradition, people open their doors and windows to invite guests to celebrate a lost loved one over hot chocolate or coffee and mezcal. Guests travel from house to house throughout the evening.
Where to Stay
– Grana B&B: Located in an 18th-century residence, this B&B offers beautifully appointed rooms overlooking an enclosed courtyard where an excellent breakfast is served each morning.
– El Diablo y La Sandia: With two locations in the city, this homey alternative occupies stately old homes with rooms featuring local artwork, pottery, and a garden of plants. Both hotels offer easy access to a highly walkable city.
On the coast, newly accessible thanks to a highway that cuts the drive to Puerto Escondido from eight hours to two and a half, there’s more good lodging and a vibe that feels like a time warp. But there are plenty of hotels with modern creature comforts.
– Casa TO: This chic hotel features a rectangular pool and raw concrete steps with lounging pads reminiscent of Greece’s Santorini.
– Casona Sforza: For more oceanfront solitude, this adults-only hotel is hard to beat.
Where to Eat
Some of Oaxaca’s best foods can be found in its markets and street stands:
– 20 de Noviembre Market: Carne asada
– Central de Abasto: Tlayudas
– Mercado Municipal de Villa de Etla: Barbacoa blanco
– Mercado de la Merced: Molé
The food scene across the state has also evolved in recent years, catering to sophisticates who want Mexico City-level finesse.
– Tendajon Agaveria: Chef Andrea Sánchez offers everything from brunch to birria.
– Ramen Republic: A newer spot offering some of Oaxaca’s best Japanese fare.
On the coast, the food scene has also evolved quickly:
– Chicama: Excellent Peruvian cuisine.
– Glou Glou: A beautiful tasting experience at Casa TO.
– La Cuisine: French and Moroccan mashup in Mazunte.
– Tribu: Superb tacos and mezcalitas in Mazunte.
Explore
The region’s best feature is its natural beauty, from the mountains to the coast. It’s worth renting a car for at least a few days to visit some of the small towns within an hour’s drive of Oaxaca City.
– Etla: Bustling market and home to the Centro de Artes San Agustín, a former textile factory turned museum.
– Teotitlán del Valle: Zapotec artisans weave rugs, bags, and clothing on primitive hand looms.
– Santiago Matatlán: Known as the birthplace of mezcal.
– San Martín Tilcajete: Home to Jacobo and María Ángeles, where artists carve, and paint elaborate works from copal wood.
There’s a surf scene around the Oaxaca coast. While GPS software makes navigation easy, some of Oaxaca’s more rugged adventures still require a guide. Coyote Aventuras is developing a network of trails in the gorgeous Sierra Norte mountains built for mountain bikers and offers e-biking, hiking, and rock-climbing trips.
Source: Mansion Global
