When talking about authentic cuisine on Guerrero’s Costa Grande, one name resonates loudly and affectionately: Carmelitas Café. Founded by Carmelita Ramírez Lorenzana, this restaurant is not just a place to eat well, but a culinary destination in itself, encapsulating tradition, hard work, and the family history behind each dish.
The story of Carmelitas Café is a lesson in resilience, passion, and adaptability. It began in the 1980s, when a newlywed, Carmelita arrived at an international cuisine restaurant opened by her husband. Unexpected circumstances led her to the kitchen, where she began to demonstrate her natural skill, inherited from her mother and grandmother in the countryside. “Since I was a child, I grew up watching my mother cook with whatever we had; with simple, natural, and authentic flavors,” Carmelita shares.
After spending 18 years running a fast-food restaurant at the Zihuatanejo airport, where she popularized Guerrero dishes, Carmelita faced the challenge of reinventing herself when small businesses were displaced by franchises. “I learned that circles close and we have to break new ground,” she recalls.
Reborn from Tradition
Thus, Carmelitas Café was first reborn as “Paco’s Tacos,” a small nightclub run by her son, Paco. However, Carmelita’s true essence lay in a different time slot and a different concept: homemade food, made with love from the very beginning.
“I decided to do what I knew how to do well. I wanted to cook what I learned from my mother and grandmother, those authentic flavors that nourished us in the countryside,” Carmelita affirms.
The decision quickly paid off. Thus, “Carmelitas Café” was born, named in honor of generations of powerful women: her grandmother, her mother, Carmen, her daughter, and herself. The menu expanded through word of mouth, but it was the visit of renowned chef Rick Bayless that catapulted the restaurant. Bayless was enchanted and took his experience to international media. “When Rick Bayless came, I was so excited that I even cheered him up,” Carmelita recalls with a laugh.
Dishes that tell stories
At Carmelitas Café, each dish is a story that Carmelita tells with passion. The menu includes staples like aporreadillo, dried beef stewed with egg and chili, a signature dish that harks back to her childhood in Guerrero. Another staple is the cuche ribs in tomato sauce, a dish that is now a must-have. “There are customers who come exclusively for those ribs; it’s a flavor they always expect,” she assures.
The cottage cheese stewed in green sauce with epazote is another menu classic, evoking freshness and simplicity, while the Mexican-style zucchini with a touch of oregano is a tribute to her mother: “That’s how my mom made them, simple and delicious,” Carmelita shares.
On weekends, tongue prepared in various ways, such as stewed with vegetables or in chipotle sauce, and the traditional pancita take center stage on the menu. “Every Sunday, pancita and tongue are a must-try. My customers already know this and come especially for them,” she explains proudly.
Endless Gastronomy
The variety and richness of Guerrero’s cuisine are reflected in every dish served at Carmelitas. “Guerrero is an inexhaustible source of flavors; we have the sea, mountains, and coast that provide us with fresh ingredients year-round. The simplicity of our ingredients is what makes the flavors shine,” Carmelita emphasizes.
Among the most authentic dishes, Carmelita highlights the nejo tamale, a complexly prepared pre-Hispanic dish, and the traditional enjococadas, tortillas bathed in coconut sauce and accompanied with onion and fresh cheese. “My cuisine is homemade, it’s authentic; here we cook like our grandmothers did,” she emphasizes.
In 17 years, Carmelitas Café has grown through family effort, a commitment to quality, and a deep love for its roots. “Here, it’s not just about food; it’s about welcoming you like you’re at home,” Carmelita says, reflecting the very essence of her business.
The desire for growth remains: “I would like Carmelitas to continue growing, and if we can open more locations, we will do so to continue sharing these special flavors.” Meanwhile, Carmelitas remains a gastronomic oasis where tradition and hospitality come together to offer a unique experience with the most authentic essence of Guerrero cuisine.
Address: Calle Heroico Colegio Militar S/N, Centro, Zihuatanejo, Guerrero.
Average check: 350 pesos
Hours: Monday to Saturday, 8:00 am to 4:30 pm. Sunday, 8:00 am to 3:00 pm.
Source: eleconomista
