From natural paradise to economic engine: the unexpected boom of the Oaxaca coast that is transforming Mexico

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Until recently, Oaxaca’s Costa Chica was remote and difficult to access. Known for its famous waves and a string of bohemian and countercultural enclaves, this stretch of wild coastline is defined by nature: migratory whales, endangered sea turtles, some 300 species of endemic birds, phosphorescent lagoons, and impressive Pacific waves. But the relative difficulty of reaching this region of southern Mexico meant that only the most determined visitors made the journey.

While there is an international airport in Puerto Escondido, the largest city on Oaxaca’s northern coast, direct flights from the United States were scarce. Meanwhile, traveling overland from Oaxaca City, a UNESCO World Heritage Site since 1987, to the coast required a grueling bus ride of almost 10 hours. This changed last year with the opening of the long-awaited highway, which reduced travel time between the coast and Oaxaca City to just over three hours.

For lovers of this less developed Mexican coast, this new infrastructure has its pros and cons. While it facilitates access to the coast, it also exposes it to further development and the risk of overtourism. Fortunately, the Costa Chica region has long embraced ecotourism, and in 2025, the Australian-based international conservation organization Save the Waves designated Puerto Escondido as the 14th World Surfing Reserve, a status that recognizes the area’s importance as a surfing destination and works to conserve its natural environment.

Things to do on the Costa Chica of Oaxaca

Surfing: There are relatively few surfers in the world capable of challenging the powerful Pacific break at Zicatela. Famous and feared, the “Mexican Pipeline” is a wave that attracts professional big-wave surfers from all over the world. However, the Puerto Escondido area has several more accessible breaks that offer opportunities for beginner surfers to learn and practice, including La Punta.

Manialtepec Lagoon: For an encounter with bioluminescent plankton—those tiny, glowing marine organisms that create a surreal nighttime spectacle—book a tour with Lalo Ecotours.

Casa Wabi: Half an hour north of Puerto Escondido, just north of Manialtepec, this sprawling art complex sits on a virtually undeveloped stretch of the Oaxacan coast. Designed by renowned architect Tadao Ando, ​​winner of the Pritzker Architecture Prize, the complex houses galleries and studios, artist residencies, and hosts events. To explore, book a guided tour.

Explore nearby towns: South of Puerto Escondido, San Agustinillo, Zipolite, and the “Pueblo Mágico” (Magical Town) of Mazunte are small countercultural enclaves, each with its own distinct personality and appeal. Zipolite boasts a vibrant LGBTQ+ community and a nudist beach, a rarity in Mexico. San Agustinillo is smaller and quieter, with an informal surf school for beginners and a few modest beachfront accommodations and restaurants. Mazunte is home to the National Turtle Center and a variety of wellness retreats and yoga studios.

La Ventanilla: a cooperative ecotourism community at the mouth of the Tonameca River, this spot is popular for observing crocodiles, iguanas, and turtles within the mangrove ecosystem.

Los surfistas viajan desde todo el mundo para desafiarse a sí mismos en el "Mexican Pipeline".

Source: nationalgeographicla